This blog is about me talking about everything I have learnt over the years about cars.
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When I originally bought my Golf 5 GTI, I did not know of any major issues with these engines. I did in the earlier days come across post of people warning about the Fuel pump cam followers failing. I didn’t really take note of it, until one of my friends had to replace his. He […] The post Wearing TFSI Cam followers appeared first on CH Crasy...
When I originally bought my Golf 5 GTI, I did not know of any major issues with these engines. I did in the earlier days come across post of people warning about the Fuel pump cam followers failing. I didn’t really take note of it, until one of my friends had to replace his. He had a Audi with a 2.0 liter TFSI engine.
I started to worry about my engine as I have never had the follower out to inspect it. This is now before I started any om my mods to the engine. The Golf 5 GTI had approximately 140000 km on the clock. Everywhere I read it sounded like a really easy job to inspect or even change out the follower. As I had a feeling that my follower was going to be worn I went ahead and ordered a new one.
The agents didn’t have one in stock so I had to wait about 2 days to get one from the factory. I could not believe that the agents would not have any in stock. If this is a problem part on the TFSI engines surely they should keep stock of these CAM Followers? Sure VW must make the inspection of the followers part of a service routine.
I finally received the cam follower from VW. Surely it turned to be a fairly easy job to take the pump out. There was two pipe setups on the TFSI high pressure fuel pumps. The older version had 2 stainless hard lines one was pressure and the other a return line. On the newer versions the return line was a soft hose. The newer version was very easy to work with as you didn’t even need to disconnect the line. You only had to crack open the pressure line nut and loosen 3 bolts and the pump came out. On the older version you had to loosen both stainless pipes. The return line had a banjo bolt you had to loosen with a torques bit.
With my luck I had the older version, everything was easy except the banjo bolt. Access to the bolt was really bad. I got the pump out and pulled out the follower.
The Cam follower was stuffed, the center of the follower was paper thin. If I have left this the follower would have worn through and I would have a messed up pump and cam as well. At this point the cam already had some damage on it. The cam lobe is ground with a slight angle on it, you will not notice it with you eyes. The function of the angle is to make the bucket spin. This makes that the lobe does not push on the same spot every time. What happens is if you get to the point that the follower is worn like in the above picture the engine will run fine with a new follower but you will have to check the follower more frequently. By frequently I mean every service.
In the above picture it shows you the different stages of follower wear and when you should change it out. The follower bucket comes with a DLC (Diamond Like Coating) on it. This coating is extremely hard, but if the cam lobe had been damaged the coating will wear off and the the damage begins.
When you want to modify you TFSI beyond the stage 2 mark then you have to fit a upgraded high pressure fuel pump like a Autotech or a APR pump. With this pumps you will be running in the region of 130 bar fuel pressure. The will load up the cam follower more. You will have to do inspections of the follower every 10000 km. If you have a already worn cam that number will reduce to 5000 km. In my case I had to check my cam follower every 5000 km as I was running stage 3 software. I actually had to replace the follower every 5000 km.
Although I really enjoyed the drive the cost of replacing these followers every 5000 km started to get to me and I had to make a plan.
After some research I found a few companies that made aftermarket followers with holes drilled in different locations, different thicknesses. But the result was the same or even worse than the standard follower. I then found a company in Canada that makes a adapter kit so you can run the TSI roller follower on a TFSI engine. I did some further research on the internet and found that the TSI cam follower is bullet proof, and that there had been no issues with these followers.
I got in contact with the company iABED, to get some pricing. It turned out the pricing was a bit in the rough side as you had to get a new VVT cover on the side of the engine that is machined to take the adapter. The adapter does not just fit.
I spoke to Issam at iABED and arranged with him just to supply me the adapter for the follower. I had access to a machine shop so I had my VVT housing machined so that the adapter will fit. The only things I had to buy was a TSI follower from the agents, and a 2 new o-rings one for the adapter and one for the fuel pump. This reduced the cost of the kit by a lot.
After the kit was installed I primed the fuel pump and got the car started, the engine wasn’t making any funny sound so I was happy. I took the car for a drive and the car performed the same way it did before the installation. I as Happy this was a proper fix for the cam follower wear problem on the TFSI engines. After I did the next 20000 km I took the pump out again for inspection. The follower was still looking brand new. The cam lobes looked the same way as the last time I had the pump out. There was no new wear marks. This was a great fix and I would recommend this to anyone that has a modified TFSI engine.
The power delivery on my K04 Golf 5 GTI is really good. There is one thing I hate to do with this car, doing hard launches. It sounds like the car is going to rip apart. The only other car I knew of that had a similar issue was the 300kW+ 2.0 turbo Audi of […] The post Is the wheels actually hopping? appeared first on CH Crasy...
The power delivery on my K04 Golf 5 GTI is really good. There is one thing I hate to do with this car, doing hard launches. It sounds like the car is going to rip apart. The only other car I knew of that had a similar issue was the 300kW+ 2.0 turbo Audi of my one friend. This was really a big issue for me. Why would you want to increase the power of the car to a point that it sound like it is going to break apart.
I started doing some research on the issue. I have never had a issue like this in the past. So I started thinking what was different to my first build. This car as bigger and wider wheels on it and I also had proper Koni suspension.
Why would a car that has a better wheel and suspension setup be worst off. There was one thing the my Polo had that the Golf 5 GTI didn’t. The Polo had proper engine mounts. I started looking around at engine mount options that was available.
Looking the standard engine mounts on the Golf 5 GTI, they are really soft. They are designed to keep all the vibrations and sound that the engine make out of the cabin of the car. The Problem is the engine has to much movement and once you launch the car the engine goes into a resonance moving violently around and hitting the mount end stops. It sounds like the wheels is hopping but it is the engine jumping around in the engine bay.
There was a lot of engine mount kits available for the Golf 5 GTI, so many to choose from. I decided to go with a brand that is well known.
When I saw this kit for the first time I knew this is the kit I want. It is well designed and machined out of high quality aluminium. I read a few reviews on this kit and the overall feedback was good, this polyurethane used in the mounts was just hard enough to do the job but not that had that will give any discomfort in driving. So I went ahead and ordered the kit.
I finally got the kit and it was time to install it.
The kit turned out to be a really quick install, and you need minimal tools to do it.
Like I mentioned this kit was really easy to install and everything went together with ease. There is something that you will have to get used to and that is the sound you hear when starting up the car. You can your the starter a lot louder in the car when turning over the engine. It isn’t a annoying sound but it is there. You can feel a difference in the engine mountings just by trying to rock the engine before and after the install. The engine feels like it is solidly mounted to the frame of the car. When you drive the car you do tend to hear some extra sounds in the car from the drive train but nothing bad. I almost want to say that some of the sound you like hearing gets amplified a bit in the car.
I took the Golf for its first drive and was almost a bit scared to do a full launch. Got to a quiet road where I could do some testing. I took the revs up to about 4500 RPM and popped the clutch and I was amazed how smooth the car accelerated. There was no wheel hop. The car smoked the tires without complaining about anything. This was a really good mod, and worth every cent.
If you are someone that enjoys a quiet car and is not doing any hard launches then this kit is not for your. This is for someone that likes launching the cars hard at drag strip or the occasional race.
Till now I was running a number 3 nozzle with my water meth kit. This nozzle size is meant for a K03 turbo car. Till now I was only using the kit to help with the prevention of carbon buildup. There was a cooling effect on the boost but not as it should. The Snow […] The post Misfires under boost… appeared first on CH Crasy...
Till now I was running a number 3 nozzle with my water meth kit. This nozzle size is meant for a K03 turbo car. Till now I was only using the kit to help with the prevention of carbon buildup. There was a cooling effect on the boost but not as it should. The Snow performance watermeth kit I got had 2 nozzles in the kit a number 3 and a number 4. The number 4 nozzle was meant for K04 setups.
Usually when you use a watermeth kit on a car it is for performance gains. The higher the horsepower the bigger nozzle you want to run as the airflow ant intake temps will be more. I got to the stage now that I was trying to get as much power out of the K04 turbo while keeping it reliable. I also didn’t want to change over to race fuel or octane booster. Max power with pump fuel (95 Octane) and with watermeth.
I did the nozzle change, and the car ran really nice. Running some log pulls with the laptop in the car and there was no sign of any knock. I was really surprised. Usually you will see some knock events low down in the RPM range. This would be a norm on a hot day like this day. I set up the boost level with one setting with my REVO SPS. Ran some more log runs with the higher boost setting and got some small knock events. It was still within the factory limits.
The knock events was only at low RPM so I set the watermeth controller that the watermeth started spraying at a lower boost level. This took the knock events away. The car pulled like a train.
Winter was here and the early morning temps was dropping. Our temps does not go as low as some other countries but we do see the 0 Deg C and some time -1 Deg C. I was on my way to work one morning. It was the first morning I saw the temp to be at 0 Deg C. There was a vehicle in front of me that was driving really slow so I decided to overtake. I accelerated hard and as I hit higher boost levels the car started misfiring. When I tap off the misfire goes away and as I accelerate again the misfire returns.
This was a funny scenario. The car has never done this before. Later that day when I was on my way home again I tried to replicate the misfire. Nothing, the car was running like it usually does. I wondered what could have made the car misfire the morning.
The next morning we had another cold day. On my way to work I dried to replicate the misfire again and surely it was back. I could not get onto boost properly without the car popping and banging. This was really annoying. That afternoon the misfire was gone again. This went on for a week and was driving me nuts.
I spend some time on the internet to see if someone had similar issues, I could not find anything. I had to put on my thinking cap. The only thing I could think off is that it was temperature related. The afternoons ambient temps was between 17 and 20 deg C and the mornings was between -1 and 2 deg C. I started looking at my logs I have done on the car. With the new intercooler I was seeing intake temps of 25 to 30 deg see on a day with ambient temp of 30 deg C. So if the Ambient is 0 deg C the intake temps can be below the 10 deg C mark. With the watermeth if you get a 10 to 15 deg C drop in temp(It could be more) that will give you sub 0 intake temps.
Engines like cool air so why would it matter if the intake temps go sub 0 deg C. The issue is if air temps go that low the density of the air gets to thick and the spark plus may battle to fire. I started looking for upgraded coil packs.
VW\Audi did do upgraded coil packs for some of there engine variants. The most common was the Audi R8. The coil packs looked exactly like the standard coils even with the same plugs. The only difference was the coil packs was red. So what makes them so special? The coil windings on the secondary coil in the coil pack is different to the standard coil. This means the voltage of the output of the coil is higher. So this means that there will be a greater spark.
I thought to myself that “Audi R8” coil packs, that is going to be very expensive. I started searching the net and found them everywhere. This was a common mod on the higher horsepower TFSI engines. The people even did conversions to fit them on the older 20 valve engines. I found a local company VAGCAFE that sold a kit for the Golf 5 GTI. This was a set of coil packs with NGK BKR8EIX spark plugs. The spark plugs was full iridium plugs. The Price was also fairly reasonable for what you got.
I bought a set of coil packs and spark plugs from VAGCAFE. It took about a day to get to me via courier. I installed the plugs and coil packs the same day it arrived. Took the car for a spin, the car drives that same, feels the same. Going from standard plugs and coil pack to the R8 goodies does not give you a power gain. The next morning it was super cold again and I dried the new coils and plugs out again. The car pulled smooth without a hiccup. The coil pack and spark plug setup fixed the misfire issue.
I would recommend fitting the R8 Coil pack and NGK BKR8EIX plugs to and stage 2 and above Golf 5 GTI. This will make certain that you always have the perfect spark to make the engine run smoothly in all conditions.
The Golf 5 GTI is a really nice platform to have as a project car. The amount of aftermarket upgrades is endless and you will loose yourself on the net finding what you want. I was always looking at what is the next step, what can I do to make the car run better and […] The post Fitting a Aftermarket Intercooler appeared first on CH Crasy...
The Golf 5 GTI is a really nice platform to have as a project car. The amount of aftermarket upgrades is endless and you will loose yourself on the net finding what you want. I was always looking at what is the next step, what can I do to make the car run better and more efficient. How can I get more reliable power out of the car?
I started looking at aftermarket intercoolers. On all the forums I found the common answer was S3 intercooler is more than good enough for a K04 setup.
I started thinking, the S3 intercooler is a good upgrade for a K03 platform that is modified. So how can the S3 intercooler be good enough for a KO4 setup, surely when you up the power on a K04 setup you need to go bigger on the intercooler. Even the REVO website recommended a bigger intercooler for the Stage 3 tunes.
There are so many options out there, one of them is a twin intercooler setup. This is basically an extra intercooler that gets mounted in front of the aircon condenser and then the boost pipes split to and from the 2 intercoolers. This seems to work for a lot of people. I personally don’t like this setup, if the extra intercooler has less restriction than the standard or S3 intercooler then most of the flow will be diverted to this intercooler. The Air will not split evenly over the 2 coolers. This basically makes the standard\S3 intercooler useless for this setup. This setup is also top bulky and to many hose clamps.
The next option was a complete aftermarket intercooler that fist into the standard mount position. This is a nice an clean setup. The issue is there is so many variants of replacement aftermarket intercoolers. They all my be similar size but they don’t all perform the same.
I spent a lot of time looking for the perfect intercooler. I came across the Wagner Tuning intercooler for TFSI platforms. Although this was one of the more expensive units out there the quality and function of this intercooler was of the highest standard.
The core size of the intercooler is 610mm x 440mm x 65mm, the frontal area of the intercooler core is 10% larger and the core volume is 50% larger than the standard S3 intercooler. The end tanks of the intercooler is properly designed so that there is no restrictions. The Intercooler just flows perfectly. The pressure drop over the intercooler is so little compared to the S3 intercooler. Why does this matter? Well the less pressure drop you have over the intercooler the lower speed the turbo has to spin to get to the requested boost by the ECU. This means lower discharge temps by the turbo.
This also give more room for performance improvement, as you are able to run higher boost if you set the boost setting higher. The overall temperature drop over the Wagner intercooler cannot be compared to the S3 intercooler. The intake temps is way lower.
You do get that if a intercooler is to be you may sit with more lag, in this case it is not . In fact the standard and S3 intercoolers is so restrictive, with the Wagner intercooler it will feel like the turbo is spooling up earlier and quicker. The Wagner intercooler will transform your TFSI engine completely. What is also nice that hot days when the car feels a bit lazy well that is a thing of the past. The power delivery will always be the same.
This is one more thing that makes this the perfect option for a aftermarket intercooler. You don’t have to modify anything to install the intercooler. Everything that bolts onto the standard\S3 intercooler bolts on to the Wagner intercooler in the same manner. The kit consist of new intercooler pipes that will reduce restriction even further.
You have to strip down the nose of the car, there is a few “how to..” documents on the internet.
You have to strip the nose of the car to the position as indicated in the pic above. Then you start to loosen all that is attached to the intercooler. The intercooler is the part that is mounted to the framework of the car and the radiator and condenser is mounted to the intercooler.
As you can see in the above picture the Wagner intercooler is a lot thicker that the standard or the S3 intercooler. Everything fits perfectly and goes back together like standard. I would recommend being two people to do the job. I did it alone and it wasn’t fun. Taking the nose of a Mk5 Golf apart is not a one man job, unless you like swearing.
I got myself a handy tool. Anyone doing constant changes to the VW should get a VCDS cable. With this you can check out for error codes and also do log runs to see if the car is performing better or not. The thing I noticed was my intake temps that used to me around 70 to 85 Deg C was now sitting at around 30 Deg C. You always want to be as close to ambient as possible. Engines just don’t like hot air. Because of this I could change my REVO timing settings 1 setting up. I did my logs and the knock values that I saw was within factory spec.
The car felt absolutely perfect, I felt like a new car to me. The car pulled strong, and it pulled strong run after run, there was no heat soak it could notice. Fitting the Wagner intercooler to my Golf 5 GTI was one of the best thing I ever done. All the testing I did with the new intercooler was done with the watermeth system disable as I wanted to see what the gains was with the new intercooler without the extra cooling of the watermeth.
Now I could enable the watermeth and set it up properly to make the car even stronger.
Most manufacturers moved away from glass lenses on the headlight, as it saves weight and is cheaper to manufacture. The issue with the plastic lenses is fades over time. Some of them end up being yellow of color. This means just about no light come through the lenses and at night you can sees just […] The post Getting Headlight to look new again. appeared first on CH Crasy...
Most manufacturers moved away from glass lenses on the headlight, as it saves weight and is cheaper to manufacture. The issue with the plastic lenses is fades over time. Some of them end up being yellow of color. This means just about no light come through the lenses and at night you can sees just about nothing in front of you.
My Golf 5 GTI’s lenses was not that bad yet but they did start going south. There was a lot of small chip marks on the lenses and they were in bad shape to my standards. Those lights new is very expensive so buying new genuine lights was not an option. The aftermarket light was also not an option as you could see they are aftermarket. The quality was just not up to it.
I found out that Mequiars had a headlight restoration kit, and I bought a kit to test.
I tried the kit out and while the lenses became very shiny they just didn’t look like new lights. The chip marks was very visible.
There is many ways on the internet how you can restore your headlight to new look. Some people say toothpaste is the way to go. Me personally decide toothpaste is for brushing teeth, to fixing headlights.
I decided I am going with the elbow grease route. I went to the store and bought 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grid water paper. The first think I did was to mask the light so that I don’t damage the paint around the light. I got some soapy water and used a small piece of the 800 grid water paper with it and sanded the lens in circular motions. At first you think by yourself, what am I doing. Will I ever fix this light after this?
The light is all foggy now, what you want to do is sand the light evenly in circular motions until you are happy that the lens is without any chip marks. You have to use your own discretion, if there is huge chip marks the chance you will get them out become slim. For all the smaller chip marks you should be able to get them out.
Once you are happy then you can move on to the 1000 grid then the 1500 and so forth. The 800 grid leaves fine scratches on the lens, you then use the finer grid paper to sand out the scratches until the lens is uniform and smooth. You don’t have to apply heavy pressure on the lens as this will cause you to sand dents into the lens which will spoil the light.
What I did is I had some Autosol Marine shine, this is a metal polish used to polish stainless and Aluminium.
You get products that is meant to polish up plastic, and Mequiars is one of the companies that has these product. I just used what I had. I took the lens and polished it up with the Autosol, in circular motions, this is the point where you can apply some pressure to the lens. Make sure to use a microfiber rag for this as you don’t want to use a harder rag that may cause scratches.
You will see the clearness of the lens will return quickly and you will get it almost to a perfect finish. The next step I used the polish that came with the Mequiars kit. This Polish is a lot finer grid than the Autosol. This is the last step to get the light to look like new again. Be sure to use a clean microfiber rag for this as well. Once you are done with this step the light will look like new. You can use this process on rear lights as well as long as there is no embossed text or badges on the light. This works on just about all plastic lights.
The results was great, it just took a bit of elbow grease and time. The cost was a Mequiars Headlight Restoration kit, Autosol Marine Shine and some water sanding paper. The lights looked brand new and I could not be happier.
At this stage of the fight I was on the internet on a daily basis looking for what else I can do to my Golf 5 GTI. It is almost like a addiction, you get used to it and then want more. I came across something that Neuspeed makes. It is called a “Power Pulley”. […] The post Is a Neuspeed Power Pulley worth it? appeared first on CH Crasy...
At this stage of the fight I was on the internet on a daily basis looking for what else I can do to my Golf 5 GTI. It is almost like a addiction, you get used to it and then want more. I came across something that Neuspeed makes. It is called a “Power Pulley”. It replaces the standard crank pulley and they clam an increase in HP.
My first thoughts was how can a pulley give you an increase in HP. Doing some research on the subject it turned out it doesn’t cause the engine to make more power but it makes more power available to the wheels.
There is a few things that cause a increase in wheel power. The first thing is the Neuspeed pulley is a lot lighter than the standard pulley. The pulley is made form high grade 6082-T6 aluminium where the standard pulley is steel with molded rubber.
The second reason you get more power to the wheels is the auxiliary units like your alternator and Air con pump is spin at a slower rate. Which means there is less power being robbed from you engine. So in the end of the day you don’t make more power but power gets distributed to the wheel that normally would have been lost to the alternator and the air con pump.
This was a really quick installation, with very little tools needed. And it looked great after it was installed. This is one of those parts that you wished was more visible when you open the bonnet of the car.
To answer this question yes. There is always a balance, if you tip it one way you give up something else. In this case the what you give up is very small. You can feel that your air con is not as cold as it used to be, but sit cold enough that you have a pleasant commute. From a battery charging side I never had any issues after fitting this kit. You may run into charging issues if you have a heavy sound system in you car. If this is the case I would not recommend the pulley change.
I am in two minds about it. This is more of a nice to have, or if you are on a mission to squeeze every little bit of power out of the car. This is not one of those mods that you would feel the power change driving the car. You may think you can feel a change but it is so small you will not really notice it. What you gain is not really worth the price you pay. I am not saying don’t buy the pulley I am just saying don’t expect a huge difference.
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