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  • Clinton Hulley
  • October 09, 2019 03:48:05 PM
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A Little About Us

This blog is about me talking about everything I have learnt over the years about cars.

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Getting Headlight to look new again.

Most manufacturers moved away from glass lenses on the headlight, as it saves weight and is cheaper to manufacture. The issue with the plastic lenses is fades over time. Some of them end up being yellow of color. This means just about no light come through the lenses and at night you can sees just […] The post Getting Headlight to look new again. appeared first on CH Crasy...

Most manufacturers moved away from glass lenses on the headlight, as it saves weight and is cheaper to manufacture. The issue with the plastic lenses is fades over time. Some of them end up being yellow of color. This means just about no light come through the lenses and at night you can sees just about nothing in front of you.

My Golf 5 GTI’s lenses was not that bad yet but they did start going south. There was a lot of small chip marks on the lenses and they were in bad shape to my standards. Those lights new is very expensive so buying new genuine lights was not an option. The aftermarket light was also not an option as you could see they are aftermarket. The quality was just not up to it.

So what was the options?

I found out that Mequiars had a headlight restoration kit, and I bought a kit to test.

Mequiars Headlight Restoration kit

I tried the kit out and while the lenses became very shiny they just didn’t look like new lights. The chip marks was very visible.

So how did I get the light to look like new again?

There is many ways on the internet how you can restore your headlight to new look. Some people say toothpaste is the way to go. Me personally decide toothpaste is for brushing teeth, to fixing headlights.

I decided I am going with the elbow grease route. I went to the store and bought 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grid water paper. The first think I did was to mask the light so that I don’t damage the paint around the light. I got some soapy water and used a small piece of the 800 grid water paper with it and sanded the lens in circular motions. At first you think by yourself, what am I doing. Will I ever fix this light after this?

Headlight Lens sanded with 800 grid water paper.

The light is all foggy now, what you want to do is sand the light evenly in circular motions until you are happy that the lens is without any chip marks. You have to use your own discretion, if there is huge chip marks the chance you will get them out become slim. For all the smaller chip marks you should be able to get them out.

Once you are happy then you can move on to the 1000 grid then the 1500 and so forth. The 800 grid leaves fine scratches on the lens, you then use the finer grid paper to sand out the scratches until the lens is uniform and smooth. You don’t have to apply heavy pressure on the lens as this will cause you to sand dents into the lens which will spoil the light.

How do you get the lens clear again?

What I did is I had some Autosol Marine shine, this is a metal polish used to polish stainless and Aluminium.

Autosol Marine Shine

You get products that is meant to polish up plastic, and Mequiars is one of the companies that has these product. I just used what I had. I took the lens and polished it up with the Autosol, in circular motions, this is the point where you can apply some pressure to the lens. Make sure to use a microfiber rag for this as you don’t want to use a harder rag that may cause scratches.

You will see the clearness of the lens will return quickly and you will get it almost to a perfect finish. The next step I used the polish that came with the Mequiars kit. This Polish is a lot finer grid than the Autosol. This is the last step to get the light to look like new again. Be sure to use a clean microfiber rag for this as well. Once you are done with this step the light will look like new. You can use this process on rear lights as well as long as there is no embossed text or badges on the light. This works on just about all plastic lights.

The outcome

Completely restored headlight

The results was great, it just took a bit of elbow grease and time. The cost was a Mequiars Headlight Restoration kit, Autosol Marine Shine and some water sanding paper. The lights looked brand new and I could not be happier.

If you liked this post please subscribe to this blog, you will be notified when new posts is available.

Help me by donating towards upgrades my latest project car so that I can do proper reviews on the upgrades! Every small donation will help to achieve the goal!

Missed any of my previous posts, click here and you will see all the archive posts.

Visit Top 100 Auto Blogs if you like to read about cars.

If you are looking for a new secure browser for your PC or mobile click here!

The post Getting Headlight to look new again. appeared first on CH Crasy Ideas.


Second Project – Neuspeed Power Pulley

At this stage of the fight I was on the internet on a daily basis looking for what else I can do to my Golf 5 GTI. It is almost like a addiction, you get used to it and then want more. I came across something that Neuspeed makes. It is called a “Power Pulley”. […] The post Second Project – Neuspeed Power Pulley appeared first on CH Crasy...

At this stage of the fight I was on the internet on a daily basis looking for what else I can do to my Golf 5 GTI. It is almost like a addiction, you get used to it and then want more. I came across something that Neuspeed makes. It is called a “Power Pulley”. It replaces the standard crank pulley and they clam an increase in HP.

My first thoughts was how can a pulley give you an increase in HP. Doing some research on the subject it turned out it doesn’t cause the engine to make more power but it makes more power available to the wheels.

So how do you get more power?

There is a few things that cause a increase in wheel power. The first thing is the Neuspeed pulley is a lot lighter than the standard pulley. The pulley is made form high grade 6082-T6 aluminium where the standard pulley is steel with molded rubber.

Neuspeed Pulley vs Standard pulley

The second reason you get more power to the wheels is the auxiliary units like your alternator and Air con pump is spin at a slower rate. Which means there is less power being robbed from you engine. So in the end of the day you don’t make more power but power gets distributed to the wheel that normally would have been lost to the alternator and the air con pump.

Is it easy to install?

This was a really quick installation, with very little tools needed. And it looked great after it was installed. This is one of those parts that you wished was more visible when you open the bonnet of the car.

Neuspeed Power pulley installed

Is there a down side to fitting this pulley?

To answer this question yes. There is always a balance, if you tip it one way you give up something else. In this case the what you give up is very small. You can feel that your air con is not as cold as it used to be, but sit cold enough that you have a pleasant commute. From a battery charging side I never had any issues after fitting this kit. You may run into charging issues if you have a heavy sound system in you car. If this is the case I would not recommend the pulley change.

So is it worth fitting the pulley?

I am in two minds about it. This is more of a nice to have, or if you are on a mission to squeeze every little bit of power out of the car. This is not one of those mods that you would feel the power change driving the car. You may think you can feel a change but it is so small you will not really notice it. What you gain is not really worth the price you pay. I am not saying don’t buy the pulley I am just saying don’t expect a huge difference.

If you liked this post please subscribe to this blog, you will be notified when new posts is available.

Help me by donating towards upgrades my latest project car so that I can do proper reviews on the upgrades! Every small donation will help to achieve the goal!

Missed any of my previous posts, click here and you will see all the archive posts.

Visit Top 100 Auto Blogs if you like to read about cars.

If you are looking for a new secure browser for your PC or mobile click here!

The post Second Project – Neuspeed Power Pulley appeared first on CH Crasy Ideas.


Project Car No 3

My third project car is well on its way, this is the mods I have so far: REVO STAGE 2 ECU TUNE Scorpion 3″ Non Resonated Turbo Back Exhaust Go Fast Bits DV+ EBC Yellow stuff brake pads iABED 2.0 FSI to 2.0 TSI Fuel pump follower Conversion The next thing I would like to […] The post Project Car No 3 appeared first on CH Crasy...

My third project car is well on its way, this is the mods I have so far:

REVO STAGE 2 ECU TUNE

Scorpion 3″ Non Resonated Turbo Back Exhaust

Go Fast Bits DV+

EBC Yellow stuff brake pads

iABED 2.0 FSI to 2.0 TSI Fuel pump follower Conversion

The next thing I would like to fit on the car is a SPULEN boost pipe kit, Please donate via Paypal below. Lets see if we can reach the goal by 5 December 2019. Every little donation will help with new content for the website.

  1. SPULEN 2.0T FSI Boost Pipe Kit KO4

    I would like to fit the SPULEN 2.0T FSI Boost Pipe Kit to my 2011 Golf 6R and to a review of the installation and the performance gains on this kit.
    $0.00 donated of $382.00 goal

Thank you!

The post Project Car No 3 appeared first on CH Crasy Ideas.


What oil temp is too hot?

When building a race car or just modifying an engine there is one thing that sometimes gets forgotten about. That is oil temp. When engines get designed for cars they have a certain oil temp in mind that they want to run. It is usually around the 100 Deg C mark, some times a bit […] The post What oil temp is too hot? appeared first on CH Crasy...

When building a race car or just modifying an engine there is one thing that sometimes gets forgotten about. That is oil temp. When engines get designed for cars they have a certain oil temp in mind that they want to run. It is usually around the 100 Deg C mark, some times a bit higher. With the airflow over the sump and the cooling system cooling the block and head that is sufficient to do the job.

When you get to modified engines you are pushing the limits. There is usually n factory safety factor that so if it is a really hot day or if you sit in bumper to bumper traffic the cooling system can cope with what you through at it. The more power you make the window gets smaller and smaller. On the modern cars the cooling systems has big safety factors as a lot of the engines get designed for higher power output but for market purpose power gets reduced.

So what is to hot and why?

Well like I said earlier engine oil temps should not really go past 100 Deg C mark. 105 Deg C is a absolute max. The reason for this is the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets. If the oil gets to thin then it starts effecting your oil pressure. The engine oil pump has a pressure relief valve in it that helps to a certain point. The pump deliver more oil than the engine need and dump the rest via the relief valve. The relief valve is opened via oil pressure. When the oil gets to thin the relief valve dumps less and less oil to try and maintain the max oil pressure the engine needs.

This is only at the higher RPM, at the lower RPM the relief valve stays closed as the oil pressure is blow the regulating value. This means the hotter the oil gets past the 100 Deg C mark the less the oil pressure is going to be. This is where the bad thing start. The oil gets thin so the oil pressure drop, because the pressure drops every liner bearing start to wear. This means every liner bearing will be putting extra heat into the oil. So from here it will be down hill. The oil temp will escalate past the 130 Deg C mark. At 130 Deg C the oil will break down losing its ability to lube the engine.

If the oil temp goes past the 130 Deg C mark the oil is damaged, it needs to be replaced. As the engine wear will just escalate from there.

Will other oils handle the above 100 deg C temps

There is a lot of oils on the market but the rule of thumb with all oils is try to stay below the 105 Dec C mark. Although oils can run higher temps, they all break down around the 130 Deg C mark. You need to have some head room. If something does goes wrong, or you have a extremely hot day you have a 25 to 30 Deg C window you can run into.

If your oil temp was sitting at 128 deg C as a standard oil temp and you get a hot day you will go past the 130 deg C mark. The oil will break down and the engine will start to wear. At same stage the engine will grenade itself.

How must I check the oil temps

If you build a heavily modified car it is always a good idea to have a oil temp gauge in the car. This way you can monitor your oil temps and see if you need alter your oil cooling system. If you measure you will know. The cost of a oil temp gauge is a lot cheaper than rebuilding a blown engine.

How must I cool my oil

Well the best way is to fit a air to oil cooler. The oil gets pumped through a air to oil cooler and back into the engine. The oil that goes into the bearings is a lot cooler than the oil in the sump or oil tank. So this will limit the temp of the oil in the sump or the tank. If you still run higher than 105 Deg C than you need a bigger oil cooler. With turbo applications it is always a good idea to run a bigger oil cooler as the turbo(s) tend to put a lot of temp into your oil in your sump.

Oil temps with racing

In certain forms of racing like stock cars oil temps is usually an issue and people don’t know about it until it is to late. They run one gear around the ovals usually 2 or 3 gear. It issue is they run at high revs most of the time. Usually at that revs cars will do higher speeds which means more air over the engine. The lack of air flow causes the oil temps and cooling system to suffer. This high oil temps will cause a engine to fail prematurely.

Conclusion

From experience with engines I have found that if you get a system to be in control then that part will not be the cause the engine fails. If all systems is in control the engine will just last. As soon as something goes out of spec then that is where the issues starts.

If you liked this post please subscribe to this blog, you will be notified when new posts is available.

Help me by donating towards upgrades my latest project car so that I can do proper reviews on the upgrades! Every small donation will help to achieve the goal!

Missed any of my previous posts, click here and you will see all the archive posts.

Visit Top 100 Auto Blogs if you like to read about cars.

If you are looking for a new secure browser for your PC or mobile click here!

The post What oil temp is too hot? appeared first on CH Crasy Ideas.


Second Project – GFB DV+ Diverter Valve

My Golf 5 GTI is now a absolute joy to drive. The car is really strong and stable on the road. I started noticing that some times the car has a bit of lag on the turbo spool up. For a regular person this would not be a problem but for me, it need to […] The post Second Project – GFB DV+ Diverter Valve appeared first on CH Crasy...

My Golf 5 GTI is now a absolute joy to drive. The car is really strong and stable on the road. I started noticing that some times the car has a bit of lag on the turbo spool up. For a regular person this would not be a problem but for me, it need to get sorted out.

I spent a few hours on the net and everything showed towards the Diverter Valve. I originally changed the diverter valve from a Revision C to the latest spec Revision D. The Revision C was a diaphragm type valve where the Revision D was a piston type. The valve that I fit to the car was the fix for the boost problem. The valve just didn’t seem to give repeatable results.

I took out the valve and strip and cleaned it, not a difficult task to do. Nothing I could really see is wrong with the valve. The piston has small holes in it that allow the air\boost to travel to the inside of the piston. There is a lip seal between the piston and the housing. So when there is pressure in the one side of the piston it has the same pressure in the opposite side. A light spring behind the piston then keep the valve closed.

It does not matter what boost pressure you put on the valve it should stay shut, because of the pressure balance.

So what was my findings

I decided to do a blow test on the piston to see if there is any leaks on the unit. I put my mouth on front the piston and blew. The blew straight back onto my face. The air leaks past the lip seal. I took the valve apart again and found that the lips seal is very hard and it is a very loose fit on the piston. My thoughts was the seal is worn. I went to VW and ordered a new Revision D Diverter valve.

Revision D Diverter valve with leaking seal.

Before I fitted the new Diverter valve to the Golf I tried the same test as I did with the previous valve. The results was the same. This is a really crap design. i took the new valve apart to check it out. The seal was just as hard as the previous valve and the same loose fit. You really have to blow hard on the valve to get the lip seal to do it job properly. Once the lip seal closes up then it does its job properly.

This now means that while the turbo is starting to spool up and the boost is not enough to make the seal work properly the boost you do generate just gets dumped back into you intake. This causes lag.

Getting a proper fix for the problem

Like I said most people will not even notice this, but for me this was a issue. The car must be crisp at all times. I started searching the net for all the aftermarket DV valves that is available out there. There is some good ones but most of the reviews state that these just don’t functions as well as the standard valve. The standard valves response time is so much quicker than the vacuum operated aftermarket valves.

I then came across a company called GFB which stands for Go Fast Bits. They designed there own version of the factory valve that utilizes the factory solenoid. You buy there kit and then strip your diverter valve and fit there parts to it. They call it a DV+. It was really well priced too. I ordered myself one of the kits. When I received the kit I was amazed with the quality of the parts and how well it was packed.

GFB DV+ Diverter Valve Kit

Installing the kit & First drive

Installing the kit was a dream, GFB give you clear instructions on what to do. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to do the install. It is really easy to do and you don’t need to be a trained person to install it.

How the GFB DV+ Diverter Valve Installs

I took the car for a drive and was amazed with the increase in response. The car felt stronger even between gearshifts. It come onto boost so quickly. Nothing like before. It was like the car was completely transformed. This is by far not a big mod, but it feels like a big one.

Conclusion

I must say that I would recommend anyone to fit a GFB DV+ unit to there car if the car has a electronic diverter valve. Most manufactures uses the same make of electronic diverter valves these days. Go Fast Bits has replacement DV+ kits for most of them. Once fitted you may hear some extra sounds from the turbo that give you that more sporty feeling in the car, but that is just because of the way the unit functions.

If you liked this post please subscribe to this blog, you will be notified when new posts is available.

Help me by donating towards upgrades my latest project car so that I can do proper reviews on the upgrades! Every small donation will help to achieve the goal!

Missed any of my previous posts, click here and you will see all the archive posts.

Visit Top 100 Auto Blogs if you like to read about cars.

If you are looking for a new secure browser for your PC or mobile click here!

The post Second Project – GFB DV+ Diverter Valve appeared first on CH Crasy Ideas.


Second Project – Golf 5 GTI wheels & Suspension

With the Golf 5 GTI being so strong, driving the car just becomes so much more fun. The problem comes in that you get comfortable with the power the car delivers and you start pushing it harder and harder. You want to see what the car will do in the corners. How fast can you […] The post Second Project – Golf 5 GTI wheels & Suspension appeared first on CH Crasy...

With the Golf 5 GTI being so strong, driving the car just becomes so much more fun. The problem comes in that you get comfortable with the power the car delivers and you start pushing it harder and harder. You want to see what the car will do in the corners. How fast can you enter a corner maintain speed and how fast can you exit.

The Golf has been a lot of fun, but one day I pushed it just a little bit to hard. I entered a sweep bend on my way to work at the same speed I usually do but this day I pushed the car really hard through the bend. The back end of the car stepped out and I just caught it in time. I almost spun the car out. Like my late boss used to say it was a CBM moment(Clammy ball moment).

Luckily I didn’t damage anything on the car but it got me thinking. What is the use you have the power but you can’t use it.

Getting new rubber for the rims

I took the car in for a new set of tires, as the tires on the car was not far from being categorized as a slick. When the tire shop took the rims of the car they called me. The rims was badly bent and they said I will have to get the rims fixed otherwise I will waste the new tires. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of getting the rims fixed. To tell you the honest truth I was tired of the standard Golf 5 GTI rims. I ordered a set of Vossen 4 spoke rims. They were nice and light and I have always been a fan of open spoke rims. They are easy to clean and just looks nice.

My Golf 5 GTI with its new Vossen Rims

I fitted a new set of Yokohama A-drive R1 tires to go with the new rims. I think the rims complimented the car really well. 19″ rims may have complimented the car better but with all the power the car was making it just would not be a good idea to have 19″ on the car. The per tire price on the 19″ was a lot more than the 18″.

Next step, suspension

The Golf still had its original stocks and springs. I was in two minds about what route to take with the suspension. The one option was to get KONI dampening adjustable sport shocks with a nice set of proper lowering springs. The issue was I did not want to do the change to just lower the car. I wanted to get a proper suspension setup in it so I can set the height and the damping to my liking. This will give options to play with to get the car as stable on the road as I could.

I went with option 2 and ordered a set of KONI coil overs for the Golf 5 GTI. The reason why I went with the KONI kit is you gain the stability of coil overs while maintaining the drive ability. I did not want to put a suspension in the car that I would need to wear a kidney belt. I needed the best of both worlds. This you get from the KONI kit.

The nicely packaged KONI coil over kit for the Golf 5 GTI

This kit may have been more expensive than some of the other kits out there, but it was worth it.

The install

I took the car to Ferroli Motorsport to get the suspension installed. The supplier of the kit told me that he would recommend that I get the kit installed by someone that know what they are doing and they could set the car up for me as well. The supplier told me that if I install the kit myself he would not be able to give me a guarantee on the parts.

KONI Coil over kit installed on my Golf 5 GTI.

Usually when the people get the coil overs installed, they do it so that they could slam the car to the ground. So when I got my car back from Ferroli’s the car was a bit to low. I could barely get a finger in between the tire and the body. Getting to a speed bump was the worst. The tires would scrape on the body. I hated that. I took the car back and got them to lift the suspension just 10mm. This is all that it needed, after this adjustment there was no scraping and the car handles really well. It felt like the car was on rails. I could push the car really hard through corners now without the worry that it would let go.

Conclusion

If you are looking at putting power down to the ground on your modified road car I would recommend fitting the KONI coil over kit. It is pricey but worth it. The drive almost feels standard but you have some much more control of the car. This is really great upgrade for someone that love to do some spirited driving on twisty roads.

If you liked this post please subscribe to this blog, you will be notified when new posts is available.

Help me by donating towards upgrades my latest project car so that I can do proper reviews on the upgrades! Every small donation will help to achieve the goal!

Missed any of my previous posts, click here and you will see all the archive posts.

Visit Top 100 Auto Blogs if you like to read about cars.

If you are looking for a new secure browser for your PC or mobile click here!

The post Second Project – Golf 5 GTI wheels & Suspension appeared first on CH Crasy Ideas.


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