Travels with Andrew, Heide and Lachlan. Stories, photos, tips and recommendations for family travel.
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As well as the city itself, the other reason to visit Arequipa is to do a Colca Canyon tour. This is one of the deepest canyons in the world at 3,270 meters or 10,730 feet. As well as the stunning scenery, these tours provide an opportunity to see the increasingly rare Andean condor. Colca Canyon Tour […] The post RTW – Colca Canyon Tour appeared first on Airports and...
As well as the city itself, the other reason to visit Arequipa is to do a Colca Canyon tour. This is one of the deepest canyons in the world at 3,270 meters or 10,730 feet. As well as the stunning scenery, these tours provide an opportunity to see the increasingly rare Andean condor.
There are two main decisions to be made when deciding which Colca Canyon tour to take from Arequipa. First, you need to decide whether you want to hike down into the canyon (and back up). You can do a 2 day or 3 day trek, both of which involve a hideously early (like, 3am) pickup time on the first day of the tour.
With neither the fitness or the desire for such a trek, we opted for a tour that included viewpoints along the canyon rim. You can do this in one day, but the pickup time is also ridiculously early as it’s a long way to the canyon. We chose a 2 day tour which included an overnight stay in the nearby town of Chivay before visiting the canyon. This allowed for a more reasonable departure time and also more stops to see things along the way.
This chart does a good job of comparing the various tour options if you’re considering a Colca Canyon tour.
We had time to grab some breakfast at the hostel before our 8:30am pick up for our tour. After some driving around town to circle back to pick up some passports that one of the other passengers had left at their hotel room, we headed out of Arequipa towards Colca Canyon.
Not too far out of town, our guide (the fabulously named Victor Hugo) suggested we keep an eye out for vicuña. These are the wild relatives of llamas and alpacas that produce an even finer wool than either of their domesticated cousins. Soon enough we came across a group close enough to the road for us to get a good look.
As we pulled away after our photo op, Victor told us about the annual ceremony where they are rounded up and brushed (not sheared) to retrieve the incredibly valuable wool.
The scenery surrounding the vicuna was a barren desert landscape.
There were some interesting rock formations, and some stunning views of Misti, the volcano that towers over Arequipa.
We also came across a group of llamas with a photogenic mix of colors.
We made a brief stop at the Patapampa Pass. This was the highest elevation we would encounter on our Colca Canyon tour, at 4,910 meters (16,109 feet). As it’s located on a high plateau, looking out from the viewpoint doesn’t really give a sense of the altitude, but trying to walk around and breathe up there definitely did.
Around midday we approached the town of Chivay where we would spend the night. Before our final approach we stopped at an overlook looking down on the town.
We arrived in Chivay and headed straight to a restaurant for a buffet lunch. The deck of the restaurant offered a nice view of the town and a volcano in the distance spewing ash into the sky. The local populace seemed unconcerned by this sight, so we followed their lead and didn’t worry too much about the possibility of being buried under tons of volcanic ash while we slept.
After lunch our guide took us on a walk through the town. We saw the market, a series of statues commemorating traditional dances from the area and the Plaza de Armas.
In the Plaza we saw a tree that had been carved with a crucifixion scene.
After our walk we checked into the hotel and had a brief rest before heading to the thermal baths.It was a bit cold getting in and out of the hot pool, but it felt good to soak after the miles we had covered on bumpy roads in the preceding weeks.
As we left the baths, we saw a nice sunset sky.
When we returned we had some free time before dinner. We chose to nap rather than do any more exploring, as we were feeling the altitude (about 3,600 meters or 12,000 feet) and the effects of our overnight bus ride from Nazca.
Dinner was a very touristy affair with local music and dances (with the obligatory audience participation).
Even though we were close to the canyon, we had an early start the next morning, setting the alarm for 5:00 am to make it to breakfast at 5:30 am. The early start allowed us to beat the crowds traveling from Arequipa on one day Colca Canyon tours. It also meant that we could make a few stops on the way to the canyon.
We stopped at a couple of villages, including one where the local folks had set up an early morning market with souvenirs for sale, alpacas to take pictures with (for a fee) and traditional dancing. It was all a bit much this early in the morning.
One of the villages had a church that had been badly damaged in an earthquake. The passing tourist trade provides some income for the rebuilding fund, but it seems like restoration will be a slow process.
After a while we came to the beginning of the Colca Canyon. We stopped at a viewpoint to look over some agricultural terraces as the rising sun lit the peaks in the distance.
Our guide was very careful to manage our expectations about whether we would see any condors. As with any wild creature, there is always the chance that they won’t turn up. Nevertheless, we were hoping that we wouldn’t be spending a few hours staring into the canyon at nothing.
Before we got to the main condor viewpoint, we stopped at a site where condors are known to roost on the rocks. Sure enough there were a couple of juvenile condors posing nicely for us in the morning sun.
After this photo stop, we moved on to the main viewing point for condors, Cruz del Condor.
We piled out of the bus and were confronted with an amazing view deep into the canyon.
Soon, however, we were distracted from the scenery by the arrival of a couple of condors.
We decided to move down to the lower viewpoint to see a different angle into the canyon.
As the morning warmed up, more condors appears, flying closer to us.
Looking back towards the higher viewpoint we could see multiple condors riding the thermals coming up from the canyon.
Because we saw so many condors so quickly, we didn’t need to spend as long as the tour allowed for at the viewpoint. This allowed us to make an extra stop for a walk along a nearby canyon rim trail. Looking down at the trails walked by participants in the the trekking tours reinforced our decision to take the non-trek option. Our guide told us that he used to lead these treks but had to give it up due to problems with his knees caused by the many descents and climbs to and from the canyon.
Our guide knew the perfect spot for the obligatory “standing on the edge of the canyon” pic.
As we walked back to the bus we took one last look back at the canyon. Despite the early mornings and the altitude, our Colca Canyon tour was a great experience. We were fortunate to experience some great weather and see a lot of condors. This was one of the highlights of our Peru adventures.
We made one last stop in a village we had skipped on the way to the canyon. This was mainly for a bathroom break, but of course there was a village church to check out.
This one featured an impressive carved wooden alter, so was well worth a quick visit.
We then headed back to Chivay for lunch, before hitting the road back to Arequipa. This was a long drive, with only one bathroom stop and we dozed most of the way.
We arrived back in Arequipa before 5:00 pm, then headed out for a quick dinner. We were in bed before 9:00pm to be ready for our 5:00 am pick up the next morning for our bus to Cusco.
The next phase of our Peru adventures was a couple of days in Arequipa. We had originally planned to spend more time here, but we had to make some adjustments to our itinerary after spending more time in Lima than we had planned. Note – links on this page may be affiliate links. If you […] The post RTW – A Couple of Days in Arequipa appeared first on Airports and...
The next phase of our Peru adventures was a couple of days in Arequipa. We had originally planned to spend more time here, but we had to make some adjustments to our itinerary after spending more time in Lima than we had planned.
Note – links on this page may be affiliate links. If you use them, we’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you.
After a not-particularly-comfortable overnight bus ride from Nazca, we got to Arequipa around 5 am. A Peru Hop guide walked us down to our accommodation. Our first impressions of Arequipa were of old buildings and streets that were deserted except for the occasional taxi racing past. The formidable doors of the Flying Dog Hostel opened, and a sleepy staff member directed us to the lounge to make ourselves as comfortable as possible until breakfast started at 7:30 am.
After breakfast we checked into our room. We were please to find a room with plenty of space and a hot shower (not always a given in South America). We rested for a while, recovering from the bumpy overnight bus ride.
Because we only had a couple of days in Arequipa, we knew we couldn’t sleep the whole day away. In any case, we were getting hungry. In any South American city, the main square is usually a good place to start, so we headed there.
Along the way we saw some of the historic buildings the city is famous for. Most of the blocks consist of historical buildings, it isn’t like some cities where the occasional historic building survives in between modern architecture.
The weather was spectacular, cool but sunny. The winter sunlight made even random buildings very photogenic.
As well as the overall scene, there were some interesting details along the way. Unfortunately, this frog fountain wasn’t running.
We eventually made it to the Plaza de Armas, which was a very pleasant space to relax in for a while.
The buildings around the plaza are made of the white volcanic rock which gives Arequipa its nickname – The White City.
Some of the buildings are carved with interesting detail, with the best example being the baroque Iglesia de la Compañía which has particularly intricate exterior decorations.
By this stage we were getting hungry, so we headed to the San Camilo Market.
We squeezed around a small table in a crowded restaurant stall and enjoyed a tasty and very inexpensive chicken and rice lunch. We also tried chicha morada, a local drink made form purple corn. Heide and I liked it, Lachlan not so much.
After our lunch, we explored the market and picked up some fruit.
Arequipa’s proximity to the Amazon Basin means that there is a great variety of fruit to choose from.
There were some products available in the market that we definitely weren’t interested in purchasing.
At this point we were again feeling the effects of the overnight bus ride, so we headed back to our room for a siesta. We did manage to rouse ourselves for dinner after a while, and enjoyed some great grilled octopus. We don’t usually take pictures of our food, but we made an exception for this meal.
On our way back to the hostel, we saw some illuminated buildings that showed off the city’s historic style. This really is a picturesque city.
As we only had a couple of days in Arequipa, we planned for a busy day on our second day here. Our first stop was Mundo Alpaca.
Although this place is very obviously designed to sell alpaca wool products (and we couldn’t resist making some purchases), it’s worth a look even if you aren’t looking to buy anything.
The highlight was getting to meet and feed some alpacas.
We also saw interesting displays about the processes of turning alpaca fleece into alpaca wool, and weaving the wool into fabric.
We also saw a display of various machinery used in wool and fabric production over the years.
After some crepes for brunch at La Petite Française (highly recommended), we made our way to the Monasterio de Santa Catalina. This monastery was founded in the 16th century, and a group of Dominican nuns still lives there. It turned out to be the highlight of our couple of days in Arequipa.
This is a large, sprawling complex that operated as a “city within a city”. Once the nuns entered the monastery they joined a self-contained community and had little contact with the outside world.
The nuns came from well-to-do families who paid for their upkeep, so they led more comfortable lives than you might expect. As well as the traditional sights like courtyards and chapels that you would expect to see, it’s fascinating to see all the various living quarters.
The kitchens in particular were interesting. There was no electricity in the complex until the 1960s, so the kitchens all feature wood burning ovens that would not look out of place in a trendy pizza restaurant.
Another interesting feature is the communal laundry area, where the nuns’ servants would wash their clothes. Mountain runoff water channels into large earthenware vessels.
At one point you can climb to the roof of a chapel and look over the monastery complex to one of the volcanoes that looms over Arequipa.
The monastery also displays statues that are paraded around Arequipa on feast days and a monstrance made of gold and silver which is now kept in the monastery after being stolen (then recovered) from the church where it previously resided.
After taking an informative guided tour, we spent some time wandering around the complex enjoying the interesting spaces. It’s an amazing place to take photos. There are all sorts of interesting details and angles, and the colors take on an amazing glow in the late afternoon sunshine we were lucky enough to experience.
We decided to visit one more destination to finish off our whirlwind couple of days in Arequipa. The Yanahuara outlook dates from the late 19th century, and provides a great view of Arequipa, with a stunning backdrop provided by the Misti volcano.
On our way to Yanahuara we passed a statue of the Peruvian war hero Francisco Bolognesi. He glowed in the afternoon sun.
When we arrived at The Yanahuara lookout we found a band playing classic rock covers. Soon after we arrived they played “Cocaine”. It seemed like an appropriate soundtrack for some South American sightseeing.
With the band set up on the main viewpoint terrace it took a bit of maneuvering to get a good view of Misti. I eventually managed to find the right angle and got the shot.
After much deliberation Lachlan picked up one of the fluffy alpacas he had been eyeing from one of the many souvenir stalls around the viewpoint.
It’s a shame that we spent less time than planned in Arequipa. We would definitely recommend including at least a few days in Arequipa in your Peru itinerary.
Having avoided Huacachina‘s famous party scene, we managed to get up bright and early to grab breakfast at our hotel before leaving for our 8:30 shuttle bus pickup. We were taking a detour from the main Peru Hop bus route to take a sightseeing flight over the mysterious Nazca Lines. Leaving Huacachina The drive from […] The post RTW – The Nazca Lines appeared first on Airports and...
Having avoided Huacachina‘s famous party scene, we managed to get up bright and early to grab breakfast at our hotel before leaving for our 8:30 shuttle bus pickup. We were taking a detour from the main Peru Hop bus route to take a sightseeing flight over the mysterious Nazca Lines.
The drive from Huacachina passes through some pretty desolate desert scenery. Closer to Nazca itself there are orange-growing communities, where oranges displayed for sale line the streets.
Th road is gravel a lot of the way. There are some elevation changes which involve some interesting switchbacks.
About two hours after leaving Huacachina we arrived at Nazca Airport and checked in for our Aeronasca Nazca Lines flight. The check in staff weighed us all, then performed some calculations to allocate us to various flights. While we waited, we watched a video playing on a loop explaining the history of the Nazca Lines and how they were made.
Soon, our co-pilot collected us to get ready for our flight. One other passenger joined Heide, Lachlan and I as we headed to our plane.
The co-pilot took a picture of us, then we squeezed into the small plane.
Once we were on board, the co-pilot explained what we were about to see and experience as we taxied to our position for take off. When we were in the air, the co-pilot took a picture of us all buckled in for our Nazca Lines experience.
Before we got to the lines themselves we got some great views of irrigated green farmland surrounding the town of Nazca.
This soon gave way to desert, and we were ready to see the lines themselves.
The first figure we came across was the Whale. The pilot banked and turned sharply to give people on both sides of the plane a chance to see it. It was a pretty intense ride for the half an hour or so it took to see all the figures.
Next we saw some gigantic trapezoidal shapes. These may have had some astronomical significance or purpose.
The next figure is one of the most mysterious. The Astronaut has been cited as evidence that the Nazca lines were built by aliens, or with help from aliens. I think this is unlikely.
The next two figures were the Monkey and the Dog. The Monkey’s tail is a spiral, which has been adopted as a symbol of Peru (and looks really cool on stickers and tee shirts).
Next we saw the Hummingbird, followed by a spiral. The highway passed near the spiral, which gave us a good sense of how massive these figures are.
The Condor is one of the most iconic of the Nazca Lines figures. The spider and the Parrot are also often seen on tee shirts in souvenir shops.
Next we saw the Orca and the Heron.
Towards the end of the flight we passed over the observation tower next to the highway. The Peru Hop ticket includes a stop at this tower where you can see a few of the figures. We were glad that we had decided to make the extra effort (and pay the extra expense) to do a Nazca Lines flight, as we saw so much more that we would have from the viewing tower.
After our Nazca Lines flight, the shuttle bus took us into the town of Nazca. It dropped us off at a cafe that was the meeting point where we would rejoin the Peru Hop bus for the overnight trip to Arequipa.
After having some lunch, we still had a few hours to kill before our pick-up time. Lachlan decided to stay at the cafe and take advantage of its wi-fi. Heide and I decided instead to visit the Museo Antonini to learn more about the Nazca culture.
This small but interesting museum contains lots of artifacts from the pre-Incan Nazca culture.
We were particularly fascinated by the collection of human skulls, relics of the human sacrifices practiced by the Nazca people.
Behind the museum is a section of aqueduct. This is an example of the advanced engineering skills that helped the Nazca people survive in an inhospitable environment.
After we had seen everything in the museum, we strolled back to the cafe, enjoying the late afternoon sunshine.
We had time to eat some dinner before the Peru Hop guide showed up and led us down the street to board the bus to Arequipa.
The Nazca Lines flight was a highlight of our time in Peru. It was definitely worth the slightly complicated logistics and the extra expense to add it in to our Peru Hop itinerary.
After our short stay in Paracas, we headed inland to the desert oasis of Huacachina. Based on our research, this place exists for two purposes – 1. playing in the sand dunes on buggies and sandboards and 2. partying. While we weren’t particularly interested in number 2., the videos we had seen of the dune […] The post RTW – Huacachina appeared first on Airports and...
After our short stay in Paracas, we headed inland to the desert oasis of Huacachina. Based on our research, this place exists for two purposes – 1. playing in the sand dunes on buggies and sandboards and 2. partying. While we weren’t particularly interested in number 2., the videos we had seen of the dune buggy rides looked like fun, so we were looking forward to an overnight stay here.
Note – links on this page may be affiliate links. If you use them, we’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you.
We were delayed leaving Paracas because the bus we were joining was caught in some heavy traffic in Lima. After a short ride to Huacachina we hustled to check in to our hotel then grabbed a quick lunch, rushing to make it to our dune buggy ride.
As we checked in to our hotel, we could see one of the massive dunes that surround Huacachina. People were already climbing the dune to get ready to view the sunset.
After our rushed lunch, we headed for the meeting point for our buggy ride. This involved trudging up a sand dune, which was hard work. Eventually we made it to our waiting 10-seater dune buggy. There were so many buggies lined up waiting the place had a bit of a “Mad Max” vibe.
Soon we were in the buggy with seatbelts fastened, and ready to go. We set off and quickly got up to speed. The driver wasted no time in flinging the buggy over some steep drops at some interesting angles. It was like a noisy roller coaster ride. There were lots of buggies out on the dunes, but somehow the drivers all managed to avoid each other.
After a while, we stopped for a photo op (and to let our pulses reduce to a normal rate).
We then moved on to the location for our next activity, which also had an amazing view over the dunes, as well as a very photogenic dune with windblown patterns undisturbed by buggy tires.
We pulled up at the edge of a steep drop and the driver unloaded a stash of sandboards. After waxing them up, he handed them out and we all took turns sliding down the slope.
When we were all at the bottom of the slope (even those of us who had made noises about just watching the sandboarding and not actually participating), the driver drove the buggy down to meet us. We all piled into the buggy and drove to the next location which was an even steeper hill.
After we all survived hill number two, the process repeated and we faced our ultimate test, an even steeper slope. I managed to plant a foot and direct a spray of sand into my face on the way down, but everyone else managed the descent without incident.
After our sandboarding adventures, it was time to head to our sunset spot. We made it just in time to watch the sun set behind the dunes
As the sun dropped beneath the dunes the temperature also dropped, and it was time to head back to the small oasis village.
With the lights of Huacachina in sight it was time to tip the driver and trudge back down the dune to find some dinner. After a hearty meal in a very touristy restaurant with a very friendly host, we headed back to the hotel to shower off all the sand which had collected on our bodies throughout the afternoon’s activities. With the sand at least mostly gone, we made it to bed at a reasonable hour to get some sleep before an early start the next morning to catch a shuttle bus to take us to the flight we had booked to see the mysterious Nazca Lines.
The accommodation options in Huacahina skew towards the backpacker party crowd, but there are other family-friendly alternatives. We stayed at the Hostal Curasi, and would recommend it. It’s far enough away from the party hostels that noise isn’t an issue.
There really isn’t any reason to stay longer than one night in Huacachina unless you’re keen for a multi-day backpacker party experience, or you’re a serious competitive sandboarder. However, we enjoyed our overnight stay in this desert oasis and the buggy ride and sandboarding was a lot of fun.
After our extended time in Lima, we were well and truly ready to explore the rest of Peru. At 7am a shuttle bus picked us up from our hotel and took us to meet the Peru Hop bus which would complete our escape from Lima. The destination for the day was Paracas, on the coast […] The post RTW – Paracas appeared first on Airports and...
After our extended time in Lima, we were well and truly ready to explore the rest of Peru. At 7am a shuttle bus picked us up from our hotel and took us to meet the Peru Hop bus which would complete our escape from Lima. The destination for the day was Paracas, on the coast a few hours down the highway.
Although it’s a more expensive option than just buying regular bus tickets in Peru, we chose to travel with Peru Hop as it’s a very traveller-friendly service. Helpful guides accompany travelers on each bus, and they provide pickups and drop-offs from and to accommodations at each end of each leg of your journey. They also make some interesting stops between destinations.
On the way out of Lima, we caught some glimpses of Barranco, the artsy district next to Miraflores. Even with our extended time in Lima, we didn’t manage to get to Barranco because of the time we had to spend dealing with the aftermath of our apartment break-in. In the unlikely event that we ever go back to Lima, we’ll have to get to Barranco and check out its street art and cafes.
Note – links on this page may be affiliate links. If you use them, we’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Our first stop was for breakfast at a roadside eatery and bar that served excellent pork sandwiches. After everyone had eaten some breakfast we gathered behind the restaurant to play “drunken cuy”. This involves placing a cuy (guinea pig) in a box, spinning it around to make it dizzy, then letting it run into one of a circle of numbered boxes. Each player has a numbered ticket, and if the cuy runs into the box with your number you are a winner. The prizes were mostly pisco shots, and it was still only 9am, so we weren’t too unhappy we didn’t win anything.
The next stop on the way to Paracas was at the Hacienda San Jose in Chincha. This is a former plantation home that is now a luxury hotel. The blue sky overhead and sunshine was quite a change from Lima where we barely caught a glimpse of the sun all week. Lachlan found a hammock and enjoyed some time swinging in it.
As well as the lovely house and grounds, there is some interesting history here, including secret tunnels used to hide and smuggle slaves to avoid taxes.
At the front of the house is an ornate chapel, next to a courtyard with a lovely fountain.
The chapel features a statue of St. Martin de Porres, a Peruvian saint. He is depicted with a broom because he believed all work is sacred, no matter how menial.
We arrived in Paracas at 2:30, and checked in to our room (small, but clean) at the Hotel Residencial Los Frayles. After dropping our bags in the room we rejoined our guide and some of the other Peru Hop passengers for a late lunch in a 4th floor restaurant overlooking the harbor. We took our time over lunch and sat for a while after eating enjoying the warm weather.
After lunch we walked around the small downtown area. Paracas is as much a fishing town as it is a beach resort. The beach isn’t that great, but the seafood is good, and there are things to see around the town in an interesting environment where the desert meets the sea.
After a quick rest at the hotel, we headed back to the beach to enjoy the late afternoon sunshine and check out the sunset.
After sunset we wandered around for a while, and found a place to buy some board shorts for Lachlan. We had discovered that his previous pair had been taken in our Lima break-in when he went to put them on for a swim in the hotel pool. We weren’t feeling very hungry after our late lunch, so we split a medium pizza in a backpacker reggae bar then went back to our room for an early night.
One of the main things to do in Paracas is a boat ride to the Ballestas Islands. These rocky islands teem with birdlife, to the point that they have been called “the poor man’s Galapagos Islands”. Because we had just spent two weeks in the real Galapagos Islands we decided to skip it and had a sleep-in and a leisurely morning instead. If you go to Paracas and you haven’t been to the Galapagos Islands you should do the Ballestas Islands cruise. It’s a relatively inexpensive way to see some amazing wildlife.
At 11am, we boarded the bus for a tour of the Paracas National Reserve (included in our Peru Hop ticket). This is an other-worldly landscape, with desert and volcanic scenery meeting a spectacular coastline.
The first stop on the tour was the Cathedral. This used to be more a lot bigger, a natural arch topped with spires that inspired its name. However, it was extensively damaged by an earthquake in 2007, leaving what is still an impressive formation.
From the Cathedral Rock viewpoint there were also great views down the coastline.
Next, we stopped at a high viewpoint overlooking Playa Roja (Red Beach).
The views back across the desert looked like another planet. Looking at this picture without knowing where it was taken, you probably wouldn’t guess how close to the ocean it was.
Our final stop was a close-up look at Playa Roja.
As well as the red sand that gives this beach its name, there were some interesting rock formations (and rock piles).
We walked out onto a rock platform right at the water’s edge. Occasionally we had to retreat as a larger wave broke over the platform.
We enjoyed our short time in Paracas. It can be seen as an overnight or day trip from Lima, or as part of an overland itinerary heading south from Lima. Either way, it’s well worth a visit.
We planned for almost a week in Lima after our Galapagos cruise and island hopping adventures. Although based on our research it didn’t look like we would need that long to see the highlights, we figured we would also have some downtime and enjoy some time in a city after so much nature. Note – […] The post RTW – A Week in Lima appeared first on Airports and...
We planned for almost a week in Lima after our Galapagos cruise and island hopping adventures. Although based on our research it didn’t look like we would need that long to see the highlights, we figured we would also have some downtime and enjoy some time in a city after so much nature.
We had used frequent flyer miles for our departure from the Galapagos Islands, and the only reward flights happened to be in business class. It was a couple of short flights, so we didn’t get a whole lot of pampering, but a glass of cheap sparkling wine before takeoff was nice.
The first leg of this journey took us to Guayaquil on the Ecuadorian mainland. We had a five and a half hour layover here, but decided against leaving the airport for what would have been a very quick visit to the town center. Instead we spent the time in an airport lounge enjoying complimentary snacks and the best internet connection we had experienced since leaving home.
After another short flight we arrived in Lima. We made it through immigration and customs with no dramas, and found our prearranged driver waiting for us. It was about a half hour drive to the Miraflores area where we met our AirBnB host and hauled our luggage up four flights of stairs to our apartment. The apartment was basic (and did I mention the four flights of stairs with no elevator?), but the two separate bedrooms, living space and kitchen were just what we needed after a couple of weeks on a boat, then in small hotel rooms.
The next morning we found a great little cafe for fancy coffee and croissants for breakfast. It isn’t in our budget to do this every day, but it was a nice “welcome back to civilization” treat. Our next stop was the Larcomar shopping mall. This is an up-market mall in an amazing cliff-top location. We browsed for a while enjoying the novelty of seeing familiar brand names in an unfamiliar setting, then went to the supermarket to pick up supplies to do some self-catering during our week in Lima.
After dropping the groceries off in the apartment, we continued exploring the Miraflores area in the opposite direction from Larcomar. It turned out our AirBnB was in a quiet residential area, but very close to lots of shops, restaurants and public spaces.
We visited John F. Kennedy Park and saw the cat population that lives there, fed and looked after by volunteers.
They hold adoption events here, but the cats look content to live in the park where they get plenty of attention.
We went to another supermarket for research purposes, and balanced out our fancy breakfast with a super cheap lunch deal, less than USD 5 for four empanadas and a 1.5 liter Inca Kola.
The final stop on our Miraflores exploration was the Mercardo Indio where we browsed souvenir stalls. We looked at a bunch of stuff that we didn’t want to have to carry around the world, then bought stickers for our water bottles.
We decided to do a free walking tour early into our week in Lima to help us get oriented to the city. So the next day we met up with the Lima By Walking downtown tour outside a Miraflores hostel. The guides shepherded us onto the bus to downtown, which was a pretty intense experience. The bus was very crowded and zoomed along a dedicated lane next to the freeway.
When we got off the bus downtown, the guides separated us into Spanish and English-speaking groups. The tour proper started in the Plaza de Armas, where we arrived just in time to catch the changing of the guard at the Governor’s Palace.
Our next stop was the Basilica of Santo Domingo.
Next we checked out some more historic buildings.
We walked down an interesting passageway which had an amazing arched roof structure. This structure used to have stained glass panels, but unfortunately, these were destroyed in an earthquake.
We also went to the Casa de la Literatura Peruana, set in an old railway station, now a cultural center celebrating Peruvian literature. Here, and at all the other stops, our guide did a good job of providing commentary and some context.
The last stop of the tour was at a shop selling various types of pisco. We enjoyed the free samples, but resisted the temptation to buy any. Of course, the tour wasn’t really free, but tips-based. The guide did a good job, so we were happy to contribute.
The next day was basically a rest day. Heide and I went out for a great seafood and ceviche lunch at Punto Azul, but apart from that we spent all day in the apartment.
The following day we decided to be a bit more active, starting with a walk along part of the Malecon, a six-mile long park on the cliff tops that overlook the Pacific Ocean. Our first goal was to reach the lighthouse we could see in the distance.
Along the way we watched some surfers in the waters below.
There were various statues and artworks along the way, including this statue of a poet which had been brightened up by the addition of fresh flowers.
We eventually made it to the lighthouse, where we turned back and headed towards one of the main attractions on the Malecon, the Parque del Amor.
Along the way we passed the launch point for paragliders, but unfortunately no one was flying at the time, so we didn’t get to watch any action.
The Parque del Amor is famous for its larger-than-life sculpture, El Beso (The Kiss), created by Peruvian artist Victor Delfín.
The sculpture is surrounded by mosaics and quotes celebrating love. The park is well-used by couples enjoying the romantic atmosphere.
After a break for crepes overlooking the water, Heide and Lachlan headed back to the apartment, while I spent a bit more time wandering the streets of Miraflores. The area is an interesting mix of old and new, and we got to know it pretty well during our week in Lima. My aim was to try and capture some of the character of the neighborhood in photos.
After lunch we took a taxi to the Museo Larco. This is a private museum with an impressive collection of pre-Columbian art and artifacts. As well as being interesting as beautiful objects, the museum gave us some historical information that we thought would be useful context to have as we visited archeological sites during our travels in Peru after our week in Lima.
One of the most interesting things we saw at the museum was a mummy. It looked very different to the Egyptian mummies we are more familiar with.
Another highlight was the number of gold artifacts. It was interesting to learn that most of the gold is actually gold plating with a low concentration of pure gold. The Incas valued gold for its decorative qualities, not as a store of intrinsic value. This explains why the Spanish never succeeded in finding any of the legendary Inca treasure troves. They simply didn’t exist.
Museo Larco is famous for its erotic art gallery. Lachlan waited outside while Heide and I checked it out.
As well as the artifacts, we enjoyed the gardens. The museum is housed in an 18th-century mansion, so the building itself has a lot of character.
Another interesting thing about Museo Larco is that it puts its entire collection on display. The artifacts that aren’t featured in the galleries are kept in a separate room where they are visible to visitors.
The museum also features a highly-regarded restaurant. We enjoyed dinner there (ordering from the less expensive end of the menu) before moving on to our next destination.
At the prearranged time, the taxi picked us up and took us to our next destination. The Magic Water Circuit is thirteen illuminated fountains set in a historic nineteen acre park.
We timed our visit to catch the light show synchronized to music. As well as illuminated fountains, this included laser projections of Peruvian culture. It was all a bit cheesy, and we enjoyed the other fountains more.
Our favorite was the water tunnel. It was a bit cold, so we were wary of getting wet. However the tunnel was designed so there was only some incidental splashing.
As well as the fountains themselves, it was fun to see the local Lima residents enjoying the park. After a couple of hours here it was time to head home after a long day.
We arrived home after our busy day of sightseeing to find that our AirBnB apartment’s lock had been drilled out. We couldn’t get the door open, so we called the AirBnB host for help. She was out of town, so she sent her son and a locksmith. After they arrived we were quickly able to get into the apartment and confirm that someone had broken in. The burglars had taken their time and searched through everything.
All of our electronics were gone, along with the camera gear I wasn’t carrying. We also lost cash, credit cards and most of the prescription medication we had stockpiled before the trip. My U.S. and Australian passports and Lachlan’s Australian passport (all were in my passport wallet) were gone, but Heide’s passport and Lachlan’s U.S passport (which had been in Heide’s passport wallet) had been left on the bed. The burglars took all of our day packs to carry everything, so we lost a lot of random travel gadgets which were of no great value, but annoying to lose. We actually kept discovering random things that were taken for a while after the incident, e.g. Lachlan’s swimsuit.
After I had made some phone calls to cancel credit cards, the AirBnB host’s son took us to a nearby hotel, the Hotel Senorial. She paid for the remaining nights of our AirBnB reservation, then an extra night as well to help us as we dealt with the aftermath of the burglary. This hotel was great and the staff were very helpful. In the unlikely event that we go back to Lima, I’d definitely stay there.
After we had got the luggage into the hotel, our host’s son took me to the Tourist Police station to make my statement and get the report I would need for various purposes – most importantly the insurance claim. I made it back to the hotel after 2 a.m., very tired but unable to sleep with al the “what if”s and “should have done”s rolling around in my head.
The burglary happened on a Friday night, which was the worst possible timing. We tried calling the Australian and U.S. embassies the next morning, and confirmed that they wouldn’t talk to us about replacing passports until Monday morning. To make some progress on recovering from our setback, we decided to do some shopping to replace some essentials. These included a new computer, a new down jacket for Heide and a daypack so we’d have at least one for our onward travels.
We were scheduled to leave Lima on Sunday, which obviously wasn’t possible now. So our Saturday activities also included a visit to the Peru Hop office. Fortunately, the office is in Miraflores, and they were very helpful, letting us change our bus pass reservation to a later date. They also agreed to let us have some mail sent to their office in Cusco for us to pick up (most importantly new debit cards so we could get cash from ATMs).
On Sunday, instead of leaving after a week in Lima as planned, we did some more shopping for bits and pieces. We also did a more normal tourist activity, checking out an artisan fair that we stumbled across.
On Monday morning we were up bright and early to start the process of replacing passports. The first step was calling the U.S. Embassy, who set me up with an emergency appointment at 7:45am the next day to apply for a new passport.
The next task was to apply for new Australian passports for Lachlan and me. Fortunately, the Australian Embassy is a short walk from the Hotel Senorial, so by mid-morning we had filled out our forms and headed back to the hotel.
While we were sitting at the hotel eating lunch and rearranging travel plans impacted by our late departure from Lima, we got a phone call. It was the consular officer we had talked to at the Australian Embassy. She advised that someone had found our passports and credit cards and called them to report it. It turned out that they had been dumped in a public garbage bin in a neighboring district, and were now in the possession of the Cleaning Supervisor. The Australian consular officer gave us his contact details, advising that he didn’t speak any English.
The hotel front desk staff called the Cleaning Supervisor for me, and we arranged to meet for me to pick up the passports and cards. One of the front desk staff kindly volunteered to come with me to translate. The pickup wet without a hitch, I received a ziplock bag with two passports and a bunch of plastic cards. In return I handed over a modest cash reward. I was especially relieved to see Heide and my drivers’ licenses in the stack of cards. We hadn’t been able to figure out any way of replacing these without one of us returning to Houston to go to a DPS office, so it was very fortunate that we got these back.
That night we went back to Larcomar to do a bit more shopping to replace essentials. We decided to celebrate the return of some of our important things by relaxing the budget and having a nice meal.
As well as good food, the restaurant had a spectacular view over the ocean, and we saw an interesting sunset that peeked out from under the grey clouds that persisted all through our week in Lima.
Although I got my U.S. passport back, I had already reported it lost, so I had to go ahead with my appointment at the U.S. Embassy to apply for a new one. I was able to arrange to pick up my new passport in Cusco, which saved me a trip back to Lima to collect it. After the embassy visit, we went to the Nikon Center to replace a couple of the lenses for my DSLR that had been stolen. We were lucky at least that this incident had occurred in Lima where we the embassies were, as well as stores where we could replace camera and computer equipment.
Our last task to get ready to escape from Lima was to get a cash advance so we would have enough cash until we picked up our new debit cards in Cusco. This turned out to be a bit more complicated than anticipated as I needed to use a credit card with the old-school raised numbers. My new-fangled Chase Sapphire Reserve with its smooth printed numbers weren’t acceptable. Luckily one of the cards that had been returned to us had raised numbers, and I hadn’t cancelled that particular card because I had forgotten that we’d brought it with us. So I was able to get a stash of Peruvian currency that should see us through to Cusco, and we were all set (and more than ready) to finally move on after more than a week in Lima. We had rescheduled our Peru Hop pickup for the next morning, three days after our originally planned departure. We had one last meal at our favorite Lima sandwich place, La Lucha, and we were ready to get a good night’s sleep to prepare to get on a bus the next morning to start the next phase of our adventures in Peru.
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